Fish and chips
Sydney Morning Herald
Tuesday September 8, 2009
FINE FISH75 Grosvenor Lane, Neutral Bay, 9908 4448As individual components, fried fish and potatoes have a street-food history dating back to early 19th-century London. Pieces of battered fish were served cold with a chunk of bread in the 1840s and it's thought the marriage of fish and chips was consummated about 50 years later. Fat preferences varied with regions; some places in the north of England chose lard or dripping, while further south cottonseed oil was used. No matter the variations, once fish and chips got together, their popularity spread quickly to Ireland and Scotland, remaining as loved there as they are here.At this shop, customers can choose their fish from the wet counter and have it cooked to order for takeaway. Upstairs in the restaurant, things are done with more panache. The clear blue perspex chairs and soaring white ceilings set a marine mood to match the seafood. Beer-battered flathead with hand-cut chips ($31) arrives with a few surprises. The tartare sauce is deconstructed into individual piles of ingredients to be mixed to taste. And "mushy peas" are a neat heap of fresh peas minced with fresh marjoram. The fish is flawless, its batter a perfectly crisp, deep golden shell for the juicy flesh but the chips should have been rushed to table rather than allowed to soften while being plated artistically.DJ'S FISH 'N' CHIPS114 Greenwell Point Road, Greenwell Point, 4447 1332There's a lot to like about this place on the Crookhaven River: the view, the pelicans, the shop's faded blue paintwork with its name in wonky, funfair-like lettering and, of course, the seafood. The daily special ($8.50) was local snapper when we visited, a large fillet in batter with crunchy bubbles formed on frying. Both fish and chips are on the oily side but it's all so hot, salty and good the grease seems part of the fast-food fun. Visit soon €“ they're threatening to repaint.CONCORD SEAFOOD69 Majors Bay Road, Concord, 9743 4888Nestled among homewares and hairdresser shops on Concord's villagey main street is this sparkling, white-tiled wet fish shop with a few pavement tables for eat-in customers. The fish and chips daily special, New Zealand hoki ($8.50), has firm white flesh flaked into generous chunks. Both batter and chips are crisp, pale gold and not too greasy. Like most places in this league, the chips are the precut frozen variety but they're well cooked and satisfying. The potato scallops are made by hand. We'll try those next time.
© 2009 Sydney Morning Herald
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